Japanese Textiles in High-End Fashion

For most people, when they hear of Japanese textiles, they are likely to immediately think of the popular Japanese silk kimono. However, the Japanese textile has much more to offer even though the kimono takes center stage in its exhibitions. 

Japan has a long and storied history of textile manufacturing and design which goes as far back as a thousand years ago, from the earliest textiles made from plant fibers such as nettle and hemp, to the introduction of silk and weaving from Korea and China, to the lengthy period where Japanese textiles achieved its own identity and developed its own weaving and indigo dyeing techniques and achieving an integral status in Japanese culture.

The period of modernization saw a rapid improvement in technique and product, with further influences from the outside world and a more extensive influence on the international scene.

The Art and Legacy of Japanese Textiles in High-End Fashion

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Today, with advancements in technique and innovation, Japanese textiles have attained a high status as a symbol of luxury and high-end fashion.  

The variety of raw materials used in Japanese fabric construction, the intricate traditional craftsmanship employed in its creation, as well as the different techniques of weaving and dyeing confer the unique qualities that has earned the Japanese textile its unimpeachable reputation and status. There are 38 textiles designated as traditional textiles by the Japanese ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry.

These textiles are indigenous to different areas in Japan and are made according to the available materials and the craftsmanship in its region of origin. They include Yuki-tsumugi (from Ibaraki and Tochigi prefectures), Kihachijo (Tokyo), Hakataori (Fukuoka), Kumejima tsumugi (Okinawa), Oumi-jofu (Shiga), Ushikubi Tsumugi (Ishikawa), Yumihama Kasuri (Shimane) to mention a few. 

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Indigenous Japanese textiles and techniques have been recognized and are increasingly employed by global designers in high-end luxury products. 

Here we will talk about some of the popular Japanese fabrics, the processes through which they are made, and some of the items made from them. Senshoku is the dyeing and weaving of fabrics. These techniques are the results of generation of craftsmanship, the honing of skills, and their interaction with redefining technologies. 

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Senshoku weaves together silk, bast, and cotton fibers to build the original plain white fabric which is then dyed using traditional methods. The resulting fabrics are notoriously known for their intricate design patterns and bright matching colors. 

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Japanese Weaving

Weaving techniques (orimono) make use of dyed threads and breathtaking precise craftsmanship to weave some of the most impressive fabric on the planet. Weaving techniques include Kasuri weaving, Tsumugi silk, Echigo jofu, Kumujimo braided cords, saga brocade, embroidery, hakata brocade, silk gauze, monsha figured gauze, futsu double weave cloth, Kurume sasuri, amongst others. 

Kasuri is arguably Japan’s most renowned fabric. This stunning textile is made from yarn that has been dyed in different colors. The dyed threads are then woven and intertwined to create specific patterns and motifs. Katsuri fabric can be recognized from its meticulous geometric patterns and images with sharply defined edges. The weaving process requires extreme precision and decision, which makes it one of the most time honored production methods in Japan. 

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The Kurume kasuri is a special variant of the ikat technique. The threads are first tied and resist dyed in special arrangements so that the threads end up with a pattern of their own, and not just plain color like in the usual Kasuri. The dyed threads are then woven together to create the final fabric with motifs that typically have blurred edges.

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Nishiki is the term for silk fabrics that are woven from colored threads, very much like the kasuri technique. Hand-woven looms were used to make the fabric before automated looms were introduced. It has been considered high-end luxury even since ancient times when silk was first introduced to Japan from China.  

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Dyeing Techniques 

The dyeing techniques are referred to as somemono. They include Yuzen dyeing, stencil dyeing, block dyeing, Edo komon, Nagaita chugata, Bingata polychrome resist dyeing, and shibori tie-resist dyeing. 

Yuzen dyeing (Yuzenzome) is perhaps the best known of the traditional dyeing processes. Designs are pre-drawn on the woven fabric using a washable dye that leaves no trace after it is washed away. A paste resist is then used to mark out the outline of the pattern. When the permanent dye is then applied, the resist paste is spared and once it is washed away, the outline of the design comes out. 

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In stencil dyeing (Katazome), a stencil with the intended pattern is used to apply the resist paste before the dye is applied.

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Block print dyeing (mokuhanzome) involves the use of wooden blocks which have the design carved into them to apply the dye, very much like a classic printing press. 

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Other Fabrics

Tsumugi: the Tsumugi fabric is generally made of silk or cotton. The Oshima tsumugi which is principally made on Amami Oshima Island in Kagoshima prefecture, is one of the three major textiles in the world and a national pride of Japan. The process of making a quality piece of tsumugi is excruciating and time consuming; it used to be said that a good piece of tsumugi required a year. But the good news is that the fabric is extremely durable, able to last for as long as 200 years even when worn on a daily basis. Impressive right? 

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Japanese Silk: Silk was first introduced to Japan from China more than 1200 years ago. Since then, it has attained a status of prestige and luxury, which was originally only popular among the aristocrats and top class. As a rule, Japanese silk undergo specialized dyeing processes rather than weaving. Embroidery techniques may be used to add further design to this exquisite fabric.

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Noragi: the Noragi fabric is made from cotton and originated as traditional farmers’ clothes, made by wives and mothers who spun the cotton at home. The noragi fabric has had an interesting history, from its humble start, it has become a popular addition by designers to spice up their designs. 

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Conclusion

While the Kimono has been the final fate of most of the textiles produced in Japan, Japanese textiles are finding new uses in fashion. This includes applications in men and women clothing items and accessories, hair ornaments, household and interior design such as curtains, tapestry, sheets, coasters, and so on. 

The sheer variety of Japanese textiles can pose a challenge in shopping for authentic Japanese textile. Rest assured, our website provides all the expert information and guidance on how to navigate the quest for high-end Japanese textiles, all at your convenience. Our extensive chain of suppliers and designers are at the disposal of our customers, ready to meet all their demands. Check it out.